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monday 10 oktober 2005 | 8b+ FLASH!
This weekend I was in the italian crag Erto, where in spite of the freezing cold, and bad weather I flashed the route Sogni di gloria 8b+. I saw Dino Lagni climb it, and tried it afterwards, with the help of some italians. Besides I climbed , and tried the tough route of the crag: Big Mother 8c+, which went quite all right, but the end slab was wet... Time to go back there.
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monday 3 oktober 2005 | 8a+/8b on sight in Schleier Wasserfall
Because of the bad weather, only the overhanging crag named "Schleier Wasserfall" rested us to go to, but the hour hike up is worth the crag! I focussed on the route Gambit, 8c+, and where the cruxes went okay, the ´easier´ part was wet, so it stayed with some trying the hard moves.This wonderfull route will be a project of mine though, the 35 meter of big overhangings, and the slabby crux at the end just are just waiting to be attacked. As a last route of the day, I did the classic Cool your foor man 8a+/8b on sight, which was a good closing of the the day.
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tuesday 20 september 2005 | Worldcup in Marbella (ESP)
This weekend the second part of the worlcup season started off in Marbella, in Spain. The wall was a few kilometers from the beach, outside in the burning sun. Because the semi finals were too easy (8a), there were 14 men and 15 ladies in the finals, so sunday became a long day, closing with teh superfinals at 00:30. I became 7th (the jury made some weird dicisions), and was halfway satisfied. It could have gone better, but the climbers in the final were really strong.
Now I have a month competition break, till I fly to Shanghai :)
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wednesday 14 september 2005 | 4th and first in Arco at the rockmasters
Although the heat was unbearable, the famous rockmasters went quite allright for me. First I was 4th in the on sight route, then the day after 2d in the afterwork route, which resulted in a 4th place in the lead! After this there was a duel competition for the best 8 climbers, where I came to the finals, against Alex Chabot. I was surely first at the top hold, but the quickdraw didn´t cooperate, so we clipped at the same time. This meant that we got the first place ex aequo, which is my first international winning in the seniors.
This shows that I might be fit enough to attack the second part of the wolrdcup season, which is about to start, namely this weekend, in Marbella, Spain. At least, I´m used to the heat now...
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monday 15 august 2005 | invited for the rockmasters in Arco
I just started training again after a two week break, just on time, since the next competition seems to be the Rockmasters in Arco.
This mythical comp is the most famous and old comp in the history of competitionclimbing, so it´s an honor to be among the 12 invited climbers.
My girlfriend is also invited, so we probably stay afterwards in Italy to eat some ice at Marco gelato, and search some rock...
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tuesday 30 july 2005 | 4th in Serre Chevalier
For the first time I was in the finals of the international masters in Serre Chevalier!. I´ve competed a lot at this comp, especially at the open youth, but, to be in the after work finals allways rested a dream... The eternal long route would have been at least 8c, and to my surprise I managed to top it, and proceed to the superfinals! The other three who did the same were to strong for me, and I got the 4th place.
I´m very satisfied, because this comp means a lot to me, and I deserve a climbing-break for the next two weeks.
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thursday 25 july 2005 | Holiday in the southern France
My girlfriend Katha and I have been in the south of France for two weeks, after the worldcup in Chamonix, mostly to swim and have a nice holiday, but also to climb a bit. We did some multipitches in the Verdon and the Alps, and did some sportsclimbing in crags like Bauchet, Annot and in the Val Durance. Beside many nice routes, I also managed to climb three 8b+s, one of them being an old project of mine: Ultime Atome, the way hard, downgraded 8c in the Verdon gorge.
Now we´re off to Serre Chevalier, where, we´ve been invited for the Masters, let´s see how that goes...
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sunday 14 july 2005 | Podium in Chamonix!
The worlcup in Chamonix has been a succes for me, while I took the 3d place, together with Silvain Millet, the man from Ceuse. Late in the evening just before midnight, I climbed the final until three holds before the top; half an hour later the firework from the national feastday the 14th of July went in the air. A nice competition, with view at the Mont Blanc, drew a lot of spectators, as usual in Chamonix.
Now I´m staying in the south of France with my girlfriend, and have some holiday :)
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wednesday 6 july 2005 | Doublefinal at the World Champs!
The most exhausting comp I´ve done in my life is now endly finished, but everything worked out really well for me, for taking th 5th place in the difficulty at the world champs in Munich made me very happy, and afterwards the totally unexspected place in the finals in the bouldering, where I got the 12th place, made me even more excited.
During the whole comp I´ve been around 35 hours in isolation, and this showed off the last day in the boulderfinals....
I´m deeply satisfied with these results, but now I can use a break and a siesta...
Read more about this comp in my tripreport.
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monday 27 june 2005 | Worldcup Zürich
I´m certainly well prepared for the world champ , by taking the 4th place at the worldcup in Zurich. A little unsatisfied (!) I was though, making a footmistake in the finals, and I was thus not able to give everything I had...
The second place of my girlfriend, and the winnig of one of my best friends, Cedric Lachat, made me rather happy , and the weekend was celebrated with a megabar Toblerone :)
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monday 12 june 2005 | Two days in the rocks
A little more than two hours driving from here, there´s a small crag called Bürs; Katha and I went to check it out this weekend.
A 30 meters high overhanging pillar made of conglomerate sure is something different than the granite boulders in Tirol. The routes are kind of hard-graded, and the holds really small, but the routes go up to 8c.
I tried the 8b called “Skyline“, where I fell off just before the chain at my on sight attempt, something rather demotivating, when you just did the 70 hard moves before... It still was a nice weekend.
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sunday 29 may 2005 | Worldcup Imst
The only worldcup that is not so far away from me, in Imst, is just finished. The qualification round, which I topped together with four others, went quite allright, but afterwards I screwed up in the semi finals, being a bit to stressy, and not having a good climb, which gave me a ´disappointing´ 20 place. Shit happens.
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wednesday 18 may 2005 | Feastdays in france
Though the weather has not been so nice lately, I still found the possibility to escape the rain of Tirol, namely in the Gorges du Loup, in the southern France, for three nice days. There it rained also, but Fuzzy and I still found some halfway dry holds to pull on. Two 8b+s I can write on my list, both downgraded from 8c, but you wonder why...
Firstly I did the way long `New Power Sacrifice`, afterwards, the shorty `Magma`, the first 50 moves, the second 15. All the routes there are a bit chipped though, so I think It´ll be long before I return to this climbing hall crag.
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monday 2 may 2005 | Worldcup Puurs
Last weekend was the closest-to-my-home-country-worldcup, in the belgium Flanders, in between beer and choclates. The high expectations from the belgim dutch public, made me rather nervous, but a 6th place made very happy.
Ramonet, the small spaniard, was too strong for all, and could celebrate his first place with a big botlle of belgium Duvel :)
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monday 25 april 2005 | Second at a worldcup!
After 3 times a youth cup, this was the first time there was a worldcup in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria, the comp that opened the season 2005.. after climbing both the quali and the semi final to the top, I could reach the 2d place in the finals! This is a record for me, but also for Holland.
Now only one place higher to go...
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saturday 12 april 2005 | A granit 8b+
Yesterday I was in the small crag `Jochberg` for the first time. This magic spot lies in the austrian Zillertal, and has some nice hard routes to climb. Though it´s small, the slight overhanging granite wall has routes till 8b+, that are not easy at all. After 10 minutes of working, I managed to climb `Generation Next` 8b+, a special routes with lots of kneebars, and really small crimpers. There´s enough projects here to go, so I´ll be waiting to return...
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monday 1 april 2005 | An austrian 8b+
Today I was with Fuzzy in the Zillertal, for some fotoshooting, and climbing. This valley in Tirol has a lot of granit crags all over, and has some nice boulders and routes. We drove along with Heinz Zak, the master photographer, to a crag called `Tulfer`, and after a long hike in the snow we were ready to climb. After the ´warm up´ in a wee hard 7c slab, I on sighted a bouldery 8a, and then in the 3d attempt I did the rarely repeated ´Minutenmann`8b+. Nice hard moves on horizontal crimpes; I think I like the climbing in Tirol :)
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monday 16 march 2005 | My first 8c+???
Springholiday is just over, and Katha just came back from a week Italy, near to Rome. 3 beautiful crags, and a nice warm wheather made it a lovely holiday, and we did a lot of hard routes. In the cave of ´Sperlonga` I did one of the first repeats of ´Ciccio Formaggio 8c+`, but I found it rather 8c, so I downgraded it. Besides that I on sighted five 8a+s.
So, sad but true, still no 8c+ in the pocket; but the time´ll come...
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monday 10 january 2005 | Again an 8b on-sight!
A week of sunny Monaco did well! Together with Katha and Fuzzy, and his parents, we´ve escaped the winter in Austria, and had a hard route strike in France. In six climbing days, I did 18 routes over 8a, including the famous ´Mortal Combat` 8b/8b+ on sight! (see photo), another two 8b+s, and the rest of the stuff all on sight or flash.
Read more in my trip report!
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