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Friday 16 Oktober 2006 | Climbing below sealevel
Holland for me doesn't mean marihuana, Heineken and tulips, it means visiting grandma's and grandpa's and seeing lots of old acquaintances and buddies :) And off course the yearly champs. Like the last few years, held in 'Masterdam', in a nice gym stuffed with spectators.
I recieved my third national title (2001,05,06) by topping out both the qualification (tough one!) and the final route.
Now i'm off to the Peak District again, to finish some lovely projects, I'll try not to hurt myself, so start hoping for the next news message :)
Photo by Adwin Timmer
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Friday 22 september 2006 | Worldcups Marbella and Shanghai
The last two worldcups were in spanish Marbella and chinese Shanghai, so that ment back to China again, which makes this season a real exhausting one. In Marbella I got the 3d place and in Shanghai the 4th, which puts me on the 4th place in the worldcup 2006.
There's two more cups to go, in Italy and Slovenia, and the chances are all open for everyone who is in the top 5 now...
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wednesday 13 september 2006 | Peak district
Straight after Arco me private jet (ryan air) lifted off towards London, from where I drove (on the left side of the road!!) to the Peak district, to get on some lovely gritstone.
I can proudly anounce that I haven't broken anything, because being alone made my life rather unsafe sometimes. For two days The new Welsh climbing spirit came over to join me on the grit, making it possible to use a rope for once, stat soloing.
Beside lots of boulders, of which an 8a & some 7c+'s (see ticklist), I could do the famous Ulysses, the 10 meter high, not protected perfect angle, with the grade E6 6b (scary enough for me). After that I even managed to on sight an E6 6b, the 'Wall of sound', with not much more wires to place...
I secretly tried some other 'routes', with High E grade, which are still to come, have to safe some'in for the next time, aye! (just kiddin')
ps: Soon ther's a report coming about this mad trip...
Photo by Jorg Verhoeven (What? How's that possible!!!)
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wednesday 13 september 2006 | Rocky masters Arco
After 6 days of hard & exhausting routesetting at the world youths in Imst, I was at the end of the line. I had to get myself together though, for the allways-nice-and-dream-of-every-lad-to-win-competition in italian Gelati & pizza center Arco.
In both the afterwork and the on sight route I could climb just barely behind spaniard Ramonet, givng me the second place. Next year I'll try even harder, maybe then it's my time to cut the famous Rockmaster cake =)
Photo by Jan Liedermooi
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tuesday 15 august 2006 | five minutes of fame!
Without me knowing, I have been for a very short time FIRST in the Worldranking, both of this season, and the updated one! But sadly (or not?) enough, I did not participate in Singapore, so I have to give the yellow sweater back to mr Crespi...
Still lots of fun though, two cheers for the Netherlands!
Photo by Johan Kardolus
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tuesday 15 august 2006 | Thailand
Our nice little Thailand trip almost fell into the (warm) water, because of a two times 14 hour delay on our flight through Asia, and me getting really sick of malaria mosquitos, or the thai style coconutsoup...
It was really lovely though, the water having 25°C (the air 40), the climbing area being totally nice, the food fantastic, and our one day trip to Phi Phi islands bringing us some souvenirs :)
I could even climb some hard routes, moslty on sight, like an 8b (that was rather 8a+, some more 8a+'s, and some 8a's. Unfortunately, my camera didn't survive China, so no climbing to come :(
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friday 4 august 2006 | good news from Xining
The wrldcup in Xining, China was really super, with lots of public, and a fina wall. I got to an unexpected second place, allthough I fell off because of a little mistake.
Now Katha & I are heading towards Thailand, to enjoy the warm sea, the beach and some big tufa climbing!
Photo by Johan Kardolus
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thursday 27 juli 2006 | Ceuse
After a classical multipitch in Chamonix, on 3700 meters, on superb granit (Ma Dalton), I raced off towards Ceuse, where there were lots of friends of mine, all ready for a nice time. The hike up was rather exhausting, but the two 8c's I did (Le cadre & La chronique) made it worth it, and the pingpong matches between Holland, Scandinavia, Iceland, Scotland and Wales were super cool!
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thursday 27 juli 2006 | WC Chamonix
The third worldcup this season was a rather nice one, in good old Chamonix, with the traditional thunderclash with fireworks (14th july) at the end. I was 4th with lots of bad luck, while my rope got stuck, so I couldn't clip my quickdraw, while the next hold had made me win :(
It still felt okay though, I got some motivation for Asia now.
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monday 10 juli 2006 | From Russia without love...
Like probably known already, the European champs in Ekaterinburg, Russia, has not been a great succes. Neither so for me, a weird jump in the semi finals put me out of battle, giving me a 'sore' 10th place.
The wall was about 12 meters high, with 2 meter overhang, what made it difficult for the routesetters & the climbers. Full of rage because of such a shitty lead competition, we were all real motivated for the bouldering, but when we where in the isolation they send us out, saying the comp was cancelled, because the matresses were too bad... Then nothing left us to go into the nightclubs, and dance...
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monday 10 juli 2006 | 8A boulder Flash!
One day Chillertal bouldering brought some hard boulders to be freed, and lots of old ones to be repeated. I could go one old project, I called it 'Slimy', a hard 7c+, and a new project, 'Viel Zlu scharf', also around 7c+. Beside that i did the highball testpiece 'Fuchur' 8a flash, what put me balls in my stomach...
A week later I could do True romance, which is I think 7c+ stat 8a, but a real beauty =)
Photo by Georgie Weberknecht
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monday 10 juli 2006 | 5th place in Hall
In june I reached for the first time the finals (top 6) on a boulder worldcup. This was in in Hall, Austria, waht is only 10 km away from me, so about a home comp... I got to the 5th place, but more had been possible! It's really a lot of fun, such a boulder comp, less stress, more climbing!
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sunday 21 may 2006 | 1st worldcup podium this year
This weekend the worldcup in Dresden(GER) was one to never forget, cause the finals were cancelled because of a very angry thunderstorm, and thus the ranking of the semi finals counted as the end result. Alltough I felt like climbing shit in the semi, I was in the 3d position after all, and couldn't improve anymore, because the comp was cancelled...
Very sore off course for the germans and the routesetters, and I hope to never see this happen again.
Now there's a one month break, but I'll probably do some bouldercups, to keep in shape :)
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sunday 14 may 2006 | My 1st bouldering worldcup
After my unexpected place in the finals at the world champs in Munich last year, this weekend I participated in Rovereto, my first worldcup in this discipline. Low stress, lots of motivation, and some fun climbers around made it a nice weekend, and my 9th place was kind of satisfying, so it'll be something to repeat in the future...
The coming month there'll be a few more cups coming up, so I'm trying to start there also :)
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thursday 4 may 2006 | Bouldering in Zillertal
A day rocking in austrian bouldermekka Zillertal had some hard boulders as a result. Because of good grip and fine beta by some friends I flashed a 7c+, and on sighted a 7c . In few tries I managed Bloodsport, 8a and another 7c+ and 7c. There's really a lot of new boulders around, and some are just waiting to be brushed, and since the snow is rapidly dissapearing I'll be around here more often the coming time.
Nameless 7c+, Photo by Zlu Haller
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thursdayday 4 may 2006 | Worldcup Puurs
Last weekend the worldcup 2006 started of in belgian Puurs. Off course I had to acclimatise a bit to the competition feeling but a 4th place isn't quite that bad, and feels like a podium coming.
Afterwards there was a celebration on the Goldfinger party, where the joy of some wonderful belgian beer cheered us all up :)
Qualification, Photo by Adwin Timmer
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thursdayday 20 april 2006 | First dutch 9a!?
At the time of the Easter bunny I've endly managed to break the magical border to the 9th grade. In 4 tries, spread over 3 days, I could climb the route 'Sanski par extension', which is given 9a. Kilian, who did it the day before me, and I settled the grade at 8c+/9a, making it still my hardest route.
At the same day I did the 8c 'Vizija' in my second try, (while placing the quickdraws!), and Katha sending the 8b 'Mrtvaski ples' made the day complete.
Coming up soon: A report with some information about the route and the holiday, and some new photo's.
Sanski Par 9a, Photo by Gernot Staltner
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monday 20 febuary 2006 | Finally 8c+!
After the olympic climbing demo in Bardonecchia, Kilian Fischuber and I went straight off towards Monaco, where we both did the classic īAlien Carnage` 8c+ in only three tries. This is my first real 8c+, but there are soon more to come! The day after the carnage in Castillon I did the 8c īRue gamma` in the cave of Peillon in two tries, so now I feel ready for the coming competition season!
Alien Carnage 8c+, Photo by Katharina Saurwein
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sunday 26 january 2006 | 8b/8b+ onsight
Last weekend Katha and I went off to a small spot in north Italy: Ceredo, where we enjoyed the sun for two days. I did some really nice routes, 2 times 8a and 2 times 8a+ on sight, and as a bonus I even did "Anima Mundi" 8b/8b+ on sight! This last route is said to be 8b+ by a lot of climbers (even two times wolrd champ Tomas Mrazek), and it surely is the hardest on sight I ever did! Afterwards we went to Arco, where I tried the new 8c+ in Eremo: "Zauberfee", and it worked out kind of well. Now a few tries, and letīs see if I can send it...
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sunday 8 january 2006 | Jorx to the olympics!
This year climbing is to show off again in the olympics, as a probe sport, in italian Torino, and the climbing part in Bardonecchia. The dutch federation, NKBV, sends me as the dutch delegation to show that climbing is cool to look at, and deserves to be olympic :) There will probably be a friendly boulder comp, with participants from all the continents, so lets see how thatīll be!
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sunday 1 january 2006 | Bouldering in Cresciano
Between Christmas and Newyear Katha and I made use of our free days to take some holiday in the bouldering Mekka of Switzerland: Cresciano. 5 Days of climbing in snow and windy clouds was a tough task, but on the end of our trip we had two days of sun, and the temperatures raised from -15° till 2°. The bouldering on the granite boulders is fantastic, and we climbed everyday non stop. I also tried some hard stuff, but that wasnīt easy with the snow, and some wet holds... Peaks of the trip were a 7c+, and two 7cīs, and lots of boulders beneath. It was mostly fun to just try every boulder we saw, and run around in the beautiful forest.
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