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12 November | WC's Valence and Brno
Two years ago I knew my first victory in Valence, so this year I was motivated repeating the job.
I felt pretty well and motivated for the finals, and in spite of a good fight, I missed a hold around the corner and got third. This was my 8th podium this year!
One worldcup to go, I've gone down to a 3d position, so reason enough giving the last efforts this year in Kranj.
Also the bouldercup has found its ending, but because of a bad run in the semi finals in Brno, I got kicked down from the 3d to a 5th place in this years cup.
Finally I see the end of this so long season!
Foto Heiko Wilhelm
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26 October | WC Japan
Konnichi wa! The sixth lead cup this year was in japanese (!) Kazo, two steps from Tokyo.
My climbing shoe felt like popping off again in the semifinal, so that left me with a sad 13th place...
Off course we didn't go flying about for 20 000 miles just for three days of competition, so the austrian team and me stayed around, looking for cheap cameras and cold rock!
Soon there will be some pics from our one week trip.
Photo Jorx
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8 October | Multi pitch
In one week, the only time we have in between the comps, Fuzzy and I went bolting in the Zillertal, a valley nearby which is stuffed with unclimbed granit walls. We put up 22 pitches, varying from 4+ till 8a, all ground up in the lead off course.
Several routes are ready to be repeated, like the 'two step slabs' 1 and 2, both 5 pitches, and 'Waterfall Hans' 10 pitches. We used bolts this time, so the pitons can be left at home :)
Open a photoserie by clicking on the picture.
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8 October | competitions
The end of the summer had a lot of comps to offer. first of all were the Arco Rcokmasters, where I came off 5th. Then a week later were the world champs in spanish Aviles. I participated in all (!) disciplines, putting off a 3d place in the lead, 9th in bouldering, and 3d in combined. Six days of competition and a bomber afterparty sent me home with a head ache :)
A few days later though was the next lead worldcup, where I reach my favortite position this year, 3d place, again.
Strongman Ramonet won all these comps, respect!
Open a photoserie by clicking on the picture.
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17 August | Bolting routes
Reini Scherer found a new spot in Austria, where we went bolting directly, because it looked so cool. The climbs are on conglomerate (breccie), the wall is around 50 meters high, and continuesly slightly overhanging. The fact that it's on 2400 meter makes the approach more than ceuse-like.
We allready put in 5 routes, from easy to gnarly difficult, which are waiting to be climbed.
The picture is me bolting the 'warm up' route; it's enlargeable by clicking it.
photo Reini Scherer
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17 August | worldcup china
I just got back from 4 days of china, in 'Xining', posited in northern tibet, at 8000 feet. After last years second place here, the third place for this year was nice as well, making it my fourth podium this season.
Two times 25 hours travelling was hell of a lot though, so now I'll be staying around Europe for a while :)
photo Heiko Wilhelm
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30 July | gorges du loup
Last etappe in our summer holidays was wolf canyon, where some more 8c fell, maybe due to the surprisingly cool temperatures. 'Last soul sacrifice' 8c, and 'Total eclatch' 8c set the score at six 8c's in a week. As a good end to it all I sent 'Karoshi' 8b+ on sight :)
Now home sweet home again, to escape the land of 30 degrees...
photo Katha Saurwein
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28 July | Midsummer Update
After a small stay in Ceuse, Katha and I got further south to 'St leger', where I did a few hard routes, like 'En depit du bon sens' 8c/+, en 'AOC la baleine' 8c.
Crazy but psiched, we went even more south, to face the heat around Buoux. More routes, like the classic 8c 'Le plafond' in 'Volx', and 'Moutchiki' 8c in unknown 'Supermarché' made me feel kind of fit.
photo Katha Saurwein
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15 July | Podium in Chamonix
Chamonix is taking part almost every year, so practically feels at home.
The quali was running as usual, the semi final even better, having some company from anouther man from the lower lands, Roman v.d. Werf, who just fails the final.
The final was a different story though, and I feel after half way, with freezing fingers (summer in Cham...). Still a third place wasn't so bad after all, and even enlarged my first place in the classement.
photo Heiko Wilhelm
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10 July | Weekend in Arco
Last week Killi (Fish) and I searched for sunny weather in italy's rock paradise Arco
Day 1: Arrival, in 4 pitches we run up a 300 meter route at the colodri, lots of 6b pitches on pitons. Afterwards we go to Massone, where I do 'Super maratona' 8b+.
Day 2: In the morning we visit Terra Promessa, where i can do 'Claudio Cafe' 8c with lots of sica, but no plastic..., after we get back to the Colodri, where we take on 400 meter before getting our asses back to rainy Innsbruck :(
Summer's started...
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2 July | First ascent multi pitch
In spite of the rainy weather Fuzzy (D. Lama) opened a new route in austrian Zillertal. The 'Hoegaarden slab', as we called it, is 4 pitches, varying from 6c to 7b.
We opened the route from the ground, and used only 6 bolts, the rest is on pitons and friends.
Anyone who likes slabby runouts, is definitely invited :)
photo me
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18 June | JORX NUMBER ONE!
Finally the dutch anthem has been heard again at a worldcup! Last weekend the second lead cup was held in Zurich, where I was able to beat everyone else, and stand for the second time on top op the podium.
Last time was in Valence in 2005, so it felt like a good time for a comeback.
Worldcup position lead 07: Place 1
Worldcup position boulder 07: Place 2
Let's try keeping it like that :)
photo Heiko Wilhelm
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18 June | Worldcup cruising
Didn't hear a long time from me, though there's much to know!
First off all I started off in the first lead worldcup with a 5th place, partly unsatisfied because my heel popped off in the finals... Then I got to a 4th place in the boulder WC in Grindelwald, where I fell on my head so hard, I thought I was crippled. Nice comp though, my girlfriend Katha ending up 3d.
Then I made a one day trip to the Netherlands, to promote La sportiva's new shoe, the solution, and to win a small afterwork comp.
Last of all, I've been doing some routes in between the comps, like 'Janus left' 8c, and 'Blasius' 8b+, both in a small crag called Nassareith
photo Heiko Wilhelm. Katha flying to a third place.
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1 May | Jorx the boulderer???
Twice good news, because I could finish the last two boulder worldcups in Bulgaria and Austria with a 4th and a 2d place!
Especially the last one in Hall, nearby my home, it worked out really well, because the boulderdiva Killi the Fischhuber won with just one small attempt before me... (I geniusly zipped from the start hold)
Way cool! But now, a little break, because soon the lead cup kicks off, so that means over with playing, off with victory again!
Take a look over here for a video from my last finale boulder, filmed by Casper on his cell phone :)
Here is a report from the organisers with lots of photos.
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14 April | Eastern in the Provence
10 Days in southern france doesn't sound so bad, does it? That's what Katha and I thought too, so after the worldcup we took off for some baguette, fromage, and lavender, but also for climbing off course :)
We merely climbed in areas like Orgon and Buoux, but also visited some small stuff. I even managed to finish an old project of mine: the ultra classic "Bronx" 8c+
photo Reini Fichtinger. looks like Buoux, is Siurana...
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14 April | WC Erlangen
Just before eastern the first boulder worldcup took place in german Erlangen, in the heart of the frankenjura.
The first round went really well, but in the semi finals I went out with nill top (boohoohoo), taking me to a 12th place.
But well, germany means beer and "Schweinsbraten", so I had a lovely time after all!
photo Adwin Timmer
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28 March | Chironico
As a perfect preparation for the boulderworldcup to come, I went to Chironico yesterday, where I managed to do a few lovely boulders.
Stuff like 'Serre moi fort' 8a/+, 'Scent of snow' and 'Fatboy', both 8a, were just too good to be true, but totally f*ucked my skin up...
So now, that means time too study, and heal what's broken...
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22 March | Competition kickoff
After a (too) short winterbreak, the competition season is back again, starting this year with the european bouldering champs in Birmingham. In stead of watching the girlies, we (team austria + me) had a lovely day in english grit (with the casual bad weather) and arrived in the qualification without serious injuries :)
This didn't work out as planned, and with only 2 tops, I got send off into the pubs, thank god it was st Patrick's day, so that ment good partying.
Well, next time better job, aye!
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21 febuary | Finally back in Bleau!
It's been almost 3 years I haven't seen any nice sandstone slopers, but last week I went back to one of my favourite areas to be: Fontainebleau.
My big bro showed us lots of pretty dyno's, so we were merely jumping around the forest, but in between I could snap away my first Font 8a's, and off course some highballs couldn't have been left out :)
Soon there's some pics coming, and maybe a video of my flying bro...
Bleau wasn't the only place i've recently been, Ticino and zillertal were also on the programme, so take a peek in the ticklist for news.
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21 january | New year in Spain
More than two weeks in Barcelona, 15°C, uncountable hard routes, what else do you want? Together with Katha and some more strong fellows (killi the Fish, Dave Graham etc) we unsecured the areas in NW Spain. Two 8b+'s on sight, 8c flash, 8c+ and two more 8b's on sight were the highlights beside many others easy, hard, funky, crazy and cool routes.
Now it's really becoming wintertime, so that means back to the gym and start getting strong again for the coming year!
Photo in a crazy 55 meter 8c with a 35 meter long tufa feature!
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