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Zillertal | Meerdere touwlengtes en alpine routes


rond innsbruck | touwlengtes in de Karwendel, sportklimgebieden


Chili | Alpine routes


Arco | Touwlengtes in het Sarcadal



2008 | Robinson Crusoe
Topo Robinson Crusoe, 750m, 7b (7b obl)
Location: Valle die Cochamo, Cerro Elefante
First ascent: Verhoeven/Saurwein/Bacher
Materials: 1 set of friends (+C3's), Pitons (knife blades, universals), schlings (60's & 120's), double ropes 60 m.
Character: Alpine route with very few bolts (one 8mm at belay), some pitons are left behind, hard to place gear, so some BIG runouts. Most of the climbing is easy, but really slabby. The line is hard to follow, a real discovery route...
Descent: Ascent to the peak, then down the big waterchannel. (2 hrs)
!!!: Pitch 4 & 5 are the hardest, have no bolts and very little gear (E5 at least). Putting some bolts would be an option... The end is not very hard, but strenous, with off widths and runoutslabs. Descent over the route is close to impossible, after the 12th pitch it's possible to rapp down the brazilian project in the huge off widths.

2008 | The dutch corner
Topo The dutch corner, 550m, 7c (7b+ obl)
Location: Valle die Cochamo, Cerro Trinidad sur
First ascent: Verhoeven/Saurwein
Materials: 1 set of friends (+C3's +#5!!!), Pitons (knife blades, universals), schlings (60's & 120's), double ropes 60 m.
Character: Alpine route with few bolts (one 8mm at belay), some pitons are left behind. The climbing is hard and sustained, on slabs, big dyhedrals and wide cracks. Some closed dyhedrals force big traverses, and even some downclimbing in the crux. The end is not so hard, but has an off width sting in the tail...
Descent: Rapp down about 9 times, use a prusik for the roof rappel, and 60 meter ropes!
!!!: There's a lot of loose rock on this one, especially in the easier pitches, take care for rope and belayer. Some chokestones in the big flares are highly touchy. Don't forget your C3 #000, you're gonna need it...

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