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WK München | Juli 2005
Thursday 30 june
The time has come, we are in the gym in Innsbruck, and after a bit of table football weīre on our way to Munich, to face the world championships.
Itīll be my second WC, the last time in Chamonix I didinīt do so well, because of some small problems...
Itīs not so far a drive from here, and Reini, the austrian coach, is pumping the gas, so after a small two hours we are already there.
At the inscription I push myself through the mass of climbers from countries you last heard about in geography, to seek the dutch delegation, which isnīt there, so I go to the hotel with the austrians. Later I meet them at the technical meeting where I also here that tomorrow all the climbers have to climb to routes, and Iīm the 129th to go. Nice...
Friday 1 ju1y
I awake at 5:45, and my roomy and I sleepwalk to breakfast, where we meet so much food, that we eat as never before. This way I like comps!
With the U Bahn itīs a small hour to the venue, and when we arrive in the isolation zone, I realise that Iīll be in this room at least for the next 12 hours. Everywhere thereīs people lying on the ground, and I make a round saying hello.
It would have started at 8, but the organisation throws in an hour of delay, so I try to get used to this dark hall.
Thereīs bets going on how long weīll be in the iso, ones say till 9 oīclock ( the organisation), others till 3 in the morning ( the coaches). I keep it on midnight, thatīs about 16 hours to go, and since sleeping doesnīt worl for me, I take my book.
A lóng while later, after another two delays, itīs my turn for the first route at 10:30. If I stand before the wall, I can barely remember where the route starts, and I just start to climb. As a reward for reaching the top, I return in the isolation, and have an hour break. Climbing rulezzzzzzz.
Everything goes well in the quali, and at 00:30 Iīm in my bed.
Saturday 2 ju1y
5:45: What, I hear a watch saying wake up? My roomy forgot to turn it off...
7:45: ouch, now itīs for real. The nerves break me down, making me feel like a robot.
I got to climb a bit earlier, 22d this time. As I sit on the small chair behind the wall, tied up and ready to go, I realise that this is the time to climb well: you have to do it!
The route is everything but friendly, with nasty bouldermoves, and small holds. At a weird volume, I use my head, shoulders and a knee to keep me from falling, and then Iīm so pumped that only my hands reach for next holds, on and on. The public gives an ovation, I realise I did it, it was enough for the finals!
Happiness, adrrenaline of the climb and nerves give me an aching head, and I try to relax, together with my girlfrind, who is also in the finals.
In the evening I get back in the isolation, and try not to think of climbing, we have to wait still a long time...
The final is long, way long with lots of bad looking holds, and it looks too hard from underneath. I lose fate, I need some hard boulders to get some motvation!
There I am again, on the same chair behind the wall, waiting to climb; Man, Serik who climbs before me does take long, the applaus when he falls is enormous, what am I doing here, I donīt wanna get up there... focus, focus, finals of the world champs, now itīs up to me.
After 48 tiring moves, I fall down totally exhausted, and I think, yeeha, now itīs over!
My climb was enough for a 5th place, which made me really satisfied; thereīs some climbers that are stronger then me, but I donīt care anymore, Iīm happy!!!
Monday 4 ju1y
After having watched the speed yesterday ( a restday!!!), I sadly have to get back in the isolation today, for the bouldering.
The other difficulty climbers that also do the bouldering, are very tired, but we can start in the beginning. For me itīs more like a game, then a competition. Itīll be my first international bouldercomp, so it doesnīt matter to me.
The six boulders I have to do are fastly over, and it was nice and tiring, but thatīs okay, itīs over for me, basta, freedom in my head!
I look at a few other climbers, and with the time it becomes clear that I havenīt done it so bad at all! Even the strongest boulderers fail to do the last boulder I on sighted.
I will and canīt believe it: Iīm in the finals: I have to be happy, says something in my head, but something else says, damn, I wanna sleep. For the third in a row I sleep after midnight, not a good preparation.
Tuesday 5 ju1y
Today is gonna be the last time Iīm in this darned isolation room. My coach is asking me whether Iīm in a mood to climb, and Iīm not gonna lie to her, but we both now Iīll give everything I have.
After a while I find myself back on the same bloody chair, I hear the public, who is cheering louder and louder, and in the noise of the music I start my first boulder.
Afterwards I see that I got the 12th place, last in the finals, but who cares, those guys are wee strong, stronger then I was today. Iīm glad everything is over, and that it went well, Iīsatisfied
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