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Have fun reading about me, the stuff I´m doing, and the stuff I´m gonna do :)

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23 August | More alpine stuff...
My summer project was to open a new route on the Sagwandpfeiler (3227 meter), a BIG wall near Innsbruck. two weeks ago Fuzzy and I started off, and now we've finished it: 'Desperation of a north face' 820 m, 7b+ max.
Our route takes the steepest part of the pillar, facing both superb granit and loose sections. The approach is 3 hours, then some steep ice to the start of the route. The 14 long pitches cover a lot of climbing around 7a/b, with scarce protection, making all the hard climbing obligatory and spacy.
We did 13 hours of nonstop climbing, starting at night, rapelling down at night. Off course the route is traditional, but has handpegged 8mm bolts at half of the belays for rapelling down.
Again we left around 30 pitons, so thanx goes out to petzl...

The first comment from both Fuzzy and me was the same: 'Thank goodness this is finally over!'

23 August | Alpine first ascent
After Fuzzy and I did the classic 'Grundschartner' (3065), 600 meter 7- max, in a bit over 3 hours, we thought it was time for something new. Katha joined us, and the three of us set off towards Zillertal, where we opened a route on a beautiful 500 NW face.
The climb is 10 pitches long, traditional, and 7a max with a lot of 6b climbing in a superb setting. We left some pitons, to find the line, ad handpegged 1 small bolt every stance for the abseil.
The route is called 'Da Katha geht die Flatta', which is a joke about Katha versus the spaced and scary climbing.

2 augustus | Rocktrip Zillertal
Never has the Zillertal seen so many climbers. Some areas looked like la Rambla on a sunny day, covered with climbers, spectators, camera crews, and of course the cows.
The weather was in bad shape at the beginning, but grew better to the end, and hey, this is the alps, rain is normal in Zillertal. Some areas reamained wet, but there was plenty of dry and sunny climbing.
The Ultimate routes were maybe a bit tough (only one of five girls routes were climbed, none of the mens), but Killi and I proved this week that they were possbile anyhow. Kilian did 'the river project' and called it 'Dolby surround', me I did my little 90 meter prow, which is named 'Ichi ban'.

15 july | WORLDCUPVICTORY IN CHAMONIX!
Since six years I've been competing in Chamonix, the classic worldcup, which is often one of the best in the season. This year knew some errors, and the weather wasn't on our side, but it didn't matter to me, because I finally reached the top of the podium again.
With great help from the dutch team our anthem was heared underneath the Mont Blanc, a pretty seldom occasion...
Now I'm taking a small break (which means rock, and then I'll start my preparation for the rest of the season, which will continue in september.





Foto Heiko Wilhelm

7 july | Lead worldcup: place 3, 8, 3, 8, ???
For the third time in a row the chinese worldcup took place in Xining, across the Gobi desert, far away from western influences... The comp got better every year, which is a good thing, because the world championships will be held here next year.
Because of my strongly shortened endurance training I was anxious how my forearms would work, but after all I was pretty satified. In the finals I climbed to a third position, but because of some protests I got kicked between the third and eigth place. The officials didn't know what to do, so they put the case with the IFSC.
Nice thing, Bureaucracy...



Foto Heiko Wilhelm

16 mei | Worldcup Belgrado
The first competition failure of this year has already occurred. Because of the elections, the organisor found himself without sponsors, and couldn't even build the wall, the IFSC had to cancel the comp two days before the start.
I was already in Vienna at time of this news, to we chilled in town for a while, and took a train back home.

10 mei | Worldcup Reunion
The next boulder round was on french paradize island La Reunion, east of Madagaskar. The heat was a tough companion, and I barely made it to the finals, where I ended up third. Victory was close, but since team Innsbruck ruled the podium, some celebration was earned.
After and before the comp, we stayed a few days playing tourists, for example visting the volcano, the beach, the waves, and a canyon.
Click left to see more.

9 may | Weekend trip to Arco
The new Sarca valley guidebook made us curious about the many long (till 1200 m!) limestone routes, who are only 2 hours away from us.
Killi and I went oof to the Cima alle Coste and picked out a classic: 'Destinazione Paradiso' 600 meters, 6b A1, partly bolted. The last 200 meters were really wet, but we still climbed everything, also the A1 part. Because we could onlyv start early midday, we ended up in the complete dark wih our headtorches.

28 April | Worldcup kickoff
After a winter of training the comps have started again. This year the season is split in bouldering before summer, and lead after summer, so that makes it easier to do both.
The first bouldercup was in austrian Hall, where I couldn't repeat my second place from last year, but had to be satisfied with place 13.
I will continue doing some boulder cups, and then concentrate on not getting pumped too hard.

16 April | Photoserie Hueco

16 April | Ticino part 3
It'll remain a trilogy, because it's getting hot in Ticino... We were kind of lazy, and did more of the sleeping than the climbing part. I could do a new left start of Graham's Crap artist, which starts in the hole on the left, and is called Wrap artist. It maybe something around 8a+.

5 April | Bolting in winter
I've been busy this winter, and not only training in the gym. When the weather was good enough Fuzzy and I went looking for new areas and routes to open.
The most of the time we spent in the Zillertal, but also in other places in Tirol my Hilti was used.

5 April | Arco
Ticino part 3? Nope! This weekend I started off for Arco, allthough looking for a friend, I couldn't find him, and found myself on me own...
Result was a 400 meter 6c max slab on the 'Sonnenplatten' on rope solo (so with a gri gri, every pitch up, down, up...). It took me four hours, afterwards I was pretty broke...

23 Maart | Ticino part 2
Because the weather in Ticino is always nice, and in Innsbruck always bad, I got back to Chironico for 3 days.
Now I kind of know all the sectors, it's bigger than it looks... The gas lamp unfortunately died, but we still bouldered till after dark.
Highlights:
- Freak brothers 8a+ (the best rock in Ticino)
- Sissyfuss 8a+
- Confession of a crap artist, highball 8a
- 4 more boulders around 8a
To be continued...?

23 Maart | Ticino part 1
Eastern on austrian university means twoweeks off, so with a small group of friends (team Bicep Katha en Anna, Zlu, rasta Max and me) we visited Ticino for 3 days.
We were in Chironico and Brione, where we climbed from 12 am till 10 pm, armed with long underpants and a gas lamp.
Interesting ticks:
- Salamander 8a+
- Black Arete 10m highball 7c
- a cool 7a slab with a jump
- another 4 boulders around 8a
To be continued...

29 Febuary | Hueco Tanks
Hueco Tanks, America's bouldering mecca, in the middel of a Texas desert, uncountable boulders.
Out of 23 days, we (5 austrians and I) had 22.5 days of sun, 20°C, and one morning of snow.
Beside a lot of burgers at Wendy's, Whataburger, Macdonalds, Fuddruckers etc, even more donuts, liters of coke and plenty of bad '2 dollar movies', we did a lot of boulders.
I could do 43 boulders V10 plus, the heaviest being 'Full Throttle' V13, the longest 'Mr Olympia' V12, and the weirdest the topout gully of 'Eckstein' V10
allthough I was ill for one week, this was one of my best climbing trips ever!
Ticklist

Photo Anna Stöhr

29 Febuary | Summary 2007
First of all for me 2007 was a year of many competitions, over 20 international ones that is. The best results were a lead victory in Zurich, a 2d place bouldering in Hall, and two bronze medals at the worldchamps in Spain.
Because at the end of the year I got really tired of so much comps, I barely missed the podium for the overall bouldering, and the same happened in the lead. I could win the combined worldcup though, first time for holland...
Beside all these comps I spend a lot of time on the rocks, on sighting my first 8b+'s, flashing 8c, and climbing some hard boulders.
Though my passion this year went to opening new routes. Multipitch, short routes, trad or bolted. both the Hilti drill and the pitons were often used to create new lines, slabby overhanging, hard and easy.


Photo Reini Fichtinger

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