Like I promised, a video of me doing the sitstart of the Buttermilker and flashing one of Bishop’s finest boulders: Xavier’s roof. Continue reading The Buttermilker V13 (8B)
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All good things come in three, hence part 2 and 3 of our little ‘Bishop Highball’ saga. All went pretty well, no bad falls, so no wheelchairs :) Like I previously wrote, Bishop offers some of the best highballs around, and of course I can never resist the temptation… After doing ‘Evilution direct’ (8a) last year in 3 ground up attempts, I felt hesitant about its neighbour ‘Ambrosia’ (8a). It’s even higher and a fall from the last half of the boulder is not an option without wheelchairs imvolved, for me this didn’t sound like a lot of fun. This year it hadn’t shrunk, but somehow I felt ready for it. The question remained: rope check out like the previous ascents or a clean ground up style?  Mesothelioma V7 After a short stop at the Westcoast, visiting Santa Cruz and San Francisco, we could happily cross the Tioga pass (3400m…) and thus saved us some hours of driving to Bishop. We’ve been here last year, when a five day snowstorm made normal bouldering nigh impossible, so it’s just so good to see this place in normal conditions. We didn’t have a drop of precipitation since the day I arrived in Boulder one month ago, but I shouldn’t say that out loud… We’ve basically been running all over the place, and now we’ve set our minds on a couple of boulders we’d like to do. Some of them high, some hard and some a bit too high ;)
Our last days in Yosemite were as cool as the first, but this time a lot colder. Temperatures dropped to -15C at night, and an early start is necessary for longer routes. Climbing 5.10 crack at -10C is hard… Continue reading More Yosemite Here’s the promised sequel on the videos we made in the reds. 50 words is a 5 star ‘easy’14c route I did on a perfect crispy and sunny day. It was used as a Petzl Rocktrip project in 2008 (?) See more for a video of Katha doing some rad stuff…  Half dome, in december... The bad weather we had in the reds compromises the beautiful weather we’re having right now. After two days of driving from Boulder to Yosemite we arrived in a snowfree Valley, with the sun heating uo the giant faces. We’ve been climbing non stop for five days now, so our feet and hands are battered. Incredibly enough, we’ve stood on top of Half Dome and El Cap with just a few patches of snow! I’ve worked on some short videos of the Reds, but found little time, so the result is not so amazing. To quote Nalle: “Could be worse”… Since I can only update one video every week, this is a starter, two will be up next.  many words for pump... so for the promised ticklist of the Reds: Here are the routes finished and just not finished, crushed or spit off from… Thanks to Roman v.d. Werf for the Pics.  Autumn in the Reds I haven’t been updating for a while now, though there’s enough to tell. I’ll try to keep this place a bit more active in the future. To start with: Katha and I are making a half year trip to the States now, which started off with the worldcup in Boulder CO. This comp was the third worldcup I did this year (I will only do one more) and it was a good one. I ended up 5th, although I climbed like a beginner and my foot zipped. From Colorado we flew to our first stop: The Red River Gorge in Kentucky, land of Bourbon, horse races and rednecks, no offence meant :) After two days of sandstone cruising, we quickly flew to China (to remain in the jetlag), for the Jiangyin Masters, where I won and Katha got 4th, so thereby we financed our USA trip… We’ve been in the Reds for about 3 weeks now, and I must say: this place is amazing. For every good climbing day there has been two raindays (I mean proper rain), which is annoying when camping outside at 5 degrees, but those days in between the rain, snow and fog are weighing up big time. We have a few days left to finish up our projects, before we head west. Wild wild west. In fact I’ll quickly drop by in the Netherlands for the nationals, and participate at the worldcup in Slovenia and then fly back to the States with the next destination: Yosemite! Just trying to keep up with the jetlag… I’ll blog soon about the routes we tried and did, and sort out some pictures… |
 
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